Day 63 | Lake Burbury

Captain John of Arcadia II gave us a tip for the drive to Zeehan, The Heemskirk River, being a really hot day we were glad for the heads up!

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BOMBS AWAY!!

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Gas refill and lunch stop at the Zeehan Hardware store – nice & cool under the verandah.

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The campground we were heading to is closed due to the fires in the area, so we find a camp on the side of the road near the Bradshaw bridge over Lake Burbury. the smoke is over the hill, and the nights have been very calm, we decide we will be safe here. Not knowing exactly how far away this fire is.

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We woke to a smokey but very still,dawn.  Still a beautiful spot, but a very quick packup this morning and we are on the road by 8:30am – a record for us!

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We drive only 5 minutes and find we are surrounded by burnt out forests.

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It was amazing to see the small creek – still trickling with all the tree ferns around it burnt.

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Still smouldering – we head off to find a rainforest, and get some fresh air to clear our lungs. Donaghy Hill Lookout walk was just what we needed. With superb views of Frenchmans Cap and surrounding ranges.

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Schools Back ! Now the kids have to do a bit of work along the way!!

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Or search for fairy homes along or rainforest walks….. its a bit dry, but there are still some about.

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Day 59 | Corinna

Today we head for the west coast wilderness known as the Arthur Pieman Conservation area, a tiny historical eco village called Corinna, just under 3hr drive from Wynyard. Its our first glimpse of mining in the Savage River area, its quiet surreal. Along the way we notice fires in the distance, not knowing which direction they were in, we soon find we are heading straight toward it.

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We were assured it was no threat as the fires were in button grass plains on the southern side of the river. Although the roads across the river were closed to traffic for safety, so the barge was not operating. We checked into our riverside camp site. A fantastic spot, on the banks of the Pieman River, with 2 platforms for our tents. We were the envy of all other campers, as we had the gun spot as other platforms were not water front, but set back amongst the trees.

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We settle in at camp then hit the Corinna Hotel for happy hour.

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Next morning we woke to a beautiful clear morning, with stunning reflections on the Pieman.

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We were happy the forecast for showers was wrong and also that the smoke had cleared, as we were off on the Arcadia II cruise today. This is a beautiful Huon Pine pleasure craft built in 1936 in Hobart for a rich business man, it then served during the war in Hobart & PNG also used as a scallop boat on Eastern Tasmania. It has been lovingly restored, by our captain John,  and was an absolute pleasure to be on for our 1.5hr journey down the Pieman River to the coast at Pieman Heads.

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Captain John gave Max & Leni the helm for some of our journey – thankfully it was part of the river that was over 60 meters deep.

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At Pieman Heads we were given lunch packs and took a brief 15 minute walk past some old sea shacks to the wooded beach for lunch. Here we ate and foraged for just over an hour before boarding to head back to Corinna.

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That night we enjoyed a very starry night on the Pieman, with the Milky Way reflecting beautifully into the calm river.

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Gaz was getting itchy feet and needed to scale a mountain – so off to Mount Donaldson, for a 360 ° view of the surrounding area. Though a rainforest below then changing to a button grass mountain top.

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The Girls pulled up short, with only the boys making the last 20 min to the summit.

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Day 3 here and we chill for the morning before taking another ride down the river, this time aboard a smaller vessel so we can gain access to some of the tributaries, and Lovers Falls, only accessible by water.

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The fires had flared up again today, so the Helicopters were back water bombing, an unexpected highlight of our personal cruise was being close to the Helicopter refilling. He returned to refill near us several times, which was thrilling to witness.

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The Savage river hides a shipwreck, allegedly scuttled here by the crew to avoid retuning out the dangerous heads. (Tough times)

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Our skipper Dale took us up the Donaldson River as far as we could go, up to the first log jam. He pointed out this amazing old Huon Pine tree, drooping down over the water on the bank, and now growing upon its withered bark is a very special trio – a small Myrtle, Huon Pine and Celery Top. The little copper coloured dot in branches above the baby Huon tree is an Azure Kingfisher, the 3rd we have seen along these wooded rivers.

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Corinna is very easy to relax, we stay on for another day, only problem is our battery is dying and fridge not coping, so Gaz goes for a drive around the Savage River to recharge. Next morning the gas bottle runs out – so reluctantly we pack or site up and leave – as there are no supplies here. Day-62-savage-river-bridge Day-62-road-cutting

Gaz has spent these last few relaxing days working on a small version of the Arcadia II from a piece of Huon we found at Pieman Heads. He leaves it as a parting gift for the crew at Corinna.

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Karina we leave Corinna on your birthday!!! Hope you had a great day – Sorry still no service here either!!

 

Day 55 | Arthur River

A short drive on to Arthur River, there are many camping options here, we opt for the campground south of the bridge called Prickly Wattle. Away from the busier van sites closer to the village. Our site is sheltered from the winds and very private, it feels like we are the only ones here. We have stumbled upon such a lovely spot – bring on the long weekend.

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The river banks and beaches are strewn with driftwood – of all sizes. Its remarkable just how much is here – and the range of timber species is varied and exotic, we foraged for hours along these shores, and have a booty of character filled driftwood we hope to re-invent when we get home.

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We found this Tee Pee along the beach…..

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So then Leni & I made this one – at the ‘Edge of the World’ not quiet as big, but still fun. While the boys were having a men’s meeting with Ranger Fi and a few locals, they shared some yarns and made things from Kelp.

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Here we collected our little pieces of driftwood to make our Oz in the sand, Leni made a heart while I worked on Australia….

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We were so lucky to be here over the long weekend, Ranger Fiona had many workshops on and we attended them all. She was fab and we all got a lot out of the activities. First was radio tracking, as used for research on Tassie Devils & Quolls, then Art about Tassie animals, Kelp for Men, followed by Kelp for everyone later in the day, here we made craft from locally farmed Kelp. Gaz made a stubbie cooler, then later in the day we made a pocket knife sheath and baskets.

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As this is the Arthur Pieman Conservation area, no wood can be collected from any of the parks, luckily the sandy riverbank was strewn with free firewood. So we loaded up the wood rack and headed back to camp.

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Max & Leni cooked the Bangers for Australia Day lunch. The sun was shining and we had our best weather day yet….

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And that night, while sitting around the fire just after dusk, Gaz & I heard some movement in the bushes behind us, to our surprise and excitement we saw it was a Spotted Tail Quoll (like the stuffed one max is holding above) They are an endangered animal and we didn’t think we’d get to see one in its environment. Very Special.

 

Day 55 | dismal swamp

Off to the remote west coast town of Arthur River for the weekend. First stop was the Tarkine Adventures at Dismal Swamp. A quick lunch in the car park then its straight for the slide!!

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Dismal Swamp is a massive Blackwood Forest in a draining sink hole. So once down the bottom there is boardwalk paths meandering their way around the sink hole floor, it is currently dry on the swamp floor but could be boggy – hence the boardwalk. Dotted around the floor were many sculptures, along with the beautiful forest habitats.

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Day 54 | Stanley

Our lunch stop today was overlooking the little town of Boat Harbour – a place my mum & dad loved too. It was a bit windy but still the view was fab.

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After a drive back into the forests for the afternoon, we head for Stanley for the night – and take the kids to climb The Nut at sunset and wait for the mutton birds to come home to their nests, something I did as a child with my mum & dad too. Its cold and windy, but Max and Leni were excited to see the birds, so they made it up the steep incline.

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We did the 45min circuit track first, and along the way on the path we saw only our 4th snake of the whole trip. A little tiger snake, surprising as it was a cold night.

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The birds came, they circled around in the updrafts near the cliff edges before swooping into their burrows, we were all glad we made the effort to get out of the comfort of the cabin we had for the night.

Next morning we took part in one of the free National Parks activities. It was a Rockpool Ramble, on the beach below the nut. Ranger Jess taught the kids about starfish, waratah anemones, urchins and the very cool decorator crab – it covers itself in seaweed for disguise – see in the container below.

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Day 53 | Black River Crossing

A drive south from Burnie today to Dip falls and the Big tree. We were surprised at the amount of industry here, dairy farms on drained swampland, alongside hardwood plantations – still plenty of clear felling of forests thoughout the maze of roads we were driving on.

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Dip Falls were unique to see, as the water flows over Basalt columns, we had a view from above at the platform lookout and then down many steps to the river bed to see it at the foot.

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After our stop here we begin to head back toward the north coast, along the way I spot a sign to Black River Picnic area, so we take the detour, it weaves its way though many forestry roads and we are about to turn back when we are greeted by a lovely river crossing – lined with myrtles, blackwoods and giant tree ferns. Complete with a hut and fireplace on each side of the river. Some friendly locals were there, and we played in the river for the afternoon, before setting up camp on the other side.

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We had a great night here, more locals turned up and we had a very entertaining chat with Edwina & Mick while all the kids played in the crossing. They were very friendly and I think they might of stayed all night if they didn’t have a dinner to head off to!

The morning was calling out for a BBQ breakie, we haven’t been able to have fires on the mainland so its nice to finally be able to use some of the kiln dried firewood we have carted with us since leaving home.

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Followed by a quick game of darts and more river fun…..

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Day 50 | Burnie

We stumbled across a Whisky Distillery here, and it sells keg strength whisky made from locally grown barley. We took the tour – then the 3 of us pressured Gaz into filling his own bottle of Hellyers Road whisky!

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Gotta love the Tassie coastline. Every time you see it, its different from the last.

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Another day and another tour, this time we try our hand at paper making. Its an interesting tour at the Makers of Burnie. They make the papers from recycled cotton, not trees, and source the cotton from offcuts and 2nds of – towels, tablecloths and jeans. Sometimes adding interesting fibre for texture – most recently its been Kangaroo Poo and Wombat Scat – a bi-product from a nearby sanctuary. Lucky for us it was green towel pulp today for the paper we made!

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Lunch at nearby Ferntree Gully, the challenge was set – kids won the bet!

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Back to Burnie Park to find the Freshwater Lobster! There seems to be many industries closed now in Burnie, but much progress with new ways to showcase the talent and history of the area. Modern buildings and public art displays – it appears to be a fresh, thriving town.

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Day 49 | Tasmania – Leven Canyon

A quick bite to eat in Devonport and we’re on the road west – when we spy a sign to Leven Canyon, as it’s still so early we decide to take the detour and check it out.

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This place looks so inviting, we decide to stay here for the night – only problem was we didn’t go shopping for milk, bread, fruit & vege before we detoured. But no worries, we will survive a night on what we have in the kitchen.

The walk to the canyon was to a high lookout which amazed us with its commanding views of Leven Canyon. Over 275m to the floor. The lower lookout was 697 steps, carved into the edge – but with rope handrail all the way. It was nice to be walking in Tassie again – but we wore Leni out!

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The only problem here was the March flys were like bee’s – noisy and persistent. Out came the net again, for some respite.

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Our drive back to the coast was through districts of Poppy fields, Potato and Cattle farms.

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Day 48 | The Spirit of Tasmania

Feeling all sparkly clean and smelling fab – we hit boarding just as the cool change blows into Melbourne – happy days!

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Suite!!!

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After a smooth crossing of Bass Straight with a 5:45am wake-up call, we’re in the truck ready to go at 6:30am – Tassie here we come!!

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